Can Dior Really Restore Wrinkles?

The Christian Dior brand, best known for couture clothing, has branched out into skincare products. Dior Capture is their skincare line of products that provide everything from sun protection, to wrinkle reduction, to hydration and cleansing. I looked at all their anti-aging products (there are 12 products listed in their complete anti-aging skincare line) and wrinkle reducing products (another 8 products in this line). For the purposes of this site, I chose a serious sounding wrinkle correction product, the Capture R60/80 XP Ultimate Wrinkle Restoring Serum.

According to the website, the key ingredient used in Dior Capture products is the alpha-longoza complex, which is derived from a rare revitalizing plant that is only found in Madagascar. The name of this plant was not available, but it sure had an intriguing story. There is also the inclusion of something called a Centuline Complex. I had to get this information from another review site (I confess!), since it is nowhere on the Dior website. In fact, Dior is very hush-hush about what they put in their products – it was more difficult to find an ingredient list for this product than any other I have reviewed so far.

Per the website, Dior’s anti-wrinkle skincare is inspired by the latest dermatological breakthroughs and derived from revolutionary research. It re-invents anti-wrinkle care by protecting and re-launching skin cell activity to encourage faster, healthier regeneration, eventually "pushing up" the depressed wrinkle for a smoother, more even look. XP Serum is the highest and most powerful concentrate of Dior's anti-wrinkle breakthrough.

To use, apply generously over face and neck, morning and night, before using Capture R60/80 XP Ultimate Wrinkle Crème for maximum anti-wrinkle benefits. Per consumer reviews, the serum has a heavy fragrance that may turn some users off.

Dior Capture Ultimate Wrinkle Restoring Serum is $120 for a 1.7 oz. bottle. There is a no money back guarantee from the manufacturer (remember…money is usually no object for people who shop Dior), and there was nary a free sample or autoship program to be found. You must call Dior at 1-866-503-9490 (U.S. residents only) to order direct from the manufacturer. I did find several online retailers, however, that will let you purchase the product online. Inside tip – this product is sold at high-end department stores, and you may be able to find a free sample at one of these stores. 

Product Claims:

  • See even deep wrinkles immediately smoothed in an hour, reduced after one month, and wrinkle-free skin restored after three months.
  • The alpha-longoza complex assists in collagen production and new skin cells

Cross Examination:

Here is the ingredient list for Capture Wrinkle Serum:

Water, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Methyl Gluceth-20, Phenoxyethanol, Carbomer, Lecithin, Phosphatidylcholine, Sodium Tocopheryl Phosphate, Sorbitol, Saccharide Isomerate, Tetrasodium EDTA, Sodium Hydroxide, Avena Sativa (Oat) Bran Extract, Zea Mays (Corn) Kernel Extract, Algin, Parfum (Fragrance), Malva Sylvestris (Mallow) Extract, Polyvinyl Alcohol, Propylene Glycol, Sodium Hyaluronate, Ruscus Aculeatus Root Extract, Potentilla Erecta Root Extract, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-3, Cellulose Gum, Polysorbate 20, Ascorbic Acid, Tocopheryl Acetate, Methylparaben, Linalool, Limonene, Butylphenyl Methylpropional, Alpha-Isomethyl Ionone, Citronellol, Geraniol, Hexyl Cinnamal, Tocopherol, Butylparaben, Ethylparaben, Isobutylparaben, Propylparaben, Ci 14700 (Red 4), BHT

There are some good ingredients listed here: for example – palmitoyl pentapeptide-3 which is a good anti-oxidant and does stimulate collagen production. While this is a good ingredient, it is found in much; much cheaper products (think Olay).

There is also vitamin E, which is good, and hyaluronic acid, which is an excellent hydrator. Oat bran extract is a good emollient, but nothing special and is found in much cheaper products.

Then things get a little holistic, unproven and downright concerning. For example, why would such an expensive product that stakes a well-known brand’s reputation on the line use the cheap, unstable and often irritating version of vitamin C (ascorbic acid)?

Ruscus Aculeatus root extract is purported to increase circulation and is used in the treatment of hemorrhoids and cellulite. There is one book reference I found that backed up this claim, but no studies in conjunction with wrinkle treatment. 

Potentilla erecta root extract can have an anti-inflammatory effect, though there is little research to back this claim up. Mallow and corn kernel extract is used in skincare preparations to soften and moisturize skin and hair. Sodium isomerate is a good moisturizer (binds water) and skin softener. These ingredients are commonly used in products that are priced much lower than Dior Capture.

Other than the above ingredients, the rest is filler: emulsifiers, preservatives, parabens, etc. As you can see, nowhere in the list is the elusive “alpha-longoza” complex or the centruline complex. Can someone help me here?

The Bottom Line:

For those of you that are serious wrinkle cream shoppers, I doubt the brand name “Dior” would sway you to purchase the product. However, for the rest of us that are less cream savvy, I hope this review has helped you never judge a wrinkle cream by its boutique label.

While there are a few good ingredients (peptides, hyaluronic acid) in Dior Capture Wrinkle Serum, there is not enough to justify the $120 price tag. There is not one hard hitting clinically proven ingredient listed, and one has to wonder if you are paying for the Dior name. If you are serious about seeking an effective wrinkle cream that is a good value, I would not recommend purchasing this particular product.